Converting a stator from points to CDI...!!

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Converting a stator from points to CDI...!!

Postby spiderwebb » Thu Apr 25, 2013 9:00 pm

It requires a little mechanical knowledge and a few tools to convert a
stator from points/separate coil ignition to an ET3 type CDi system.
The only special parts required are a pick up and a source coil. The
rest can be obtained from a good hardware store.

Here are the parts needed:

- pick up
- source coil
- 24" lengths of 16G red wire, white wire and two 24" lengths of green
wire
- (4) female spade type wire connectors
- small length of heat shrink that fits over above connectors
- small length of heat shrink that fits over wire to wire soldered
joints
- length of protective sheath
- 1/2" long #10 x 32 machine screw
- #10 vibration proof lock washer
- 1/2" long #6 x 32 machine screw
- blue Loctite
- spirits, solvent or degreaser of some kind

Tools required:
- Flat screwdriver and a driver to suit purchased screws
- #10 x 32 tap
- #6 x 32 tap
- tap oil and tap holder
- drill and drill bits
- razor
- hammer
- punches
- soldering gun and solder (60/40 rosen core)

Let's start with the pick up first:

First cut the green wire right at the condenser and then remove the
points and condenser. Carefully drill out the rivet head under the
points and push out the rivet as this is where the locating pin for the
pick up goes. Tap this hole all the way with the #6 x 32 tap. Start
from the back (soft aluminium) and go very slowly when you hit the
metal plates -- lots of lube please! Use a 1/8" drill bit from the back
of the stator to remove the threads in the aluminium (stop when you hit
the metal plates). Clean it all out with your degreaser. Put a dab of
blue Loctite on the 1/2" 6 x 32 screw and insert it from the bottom of
the stator through the drilled out aluminium plate and into the threads
you made in the metal plates. Tighten it down but do not strip the new
threads. The Loctite will keep it from loosening.

Now use a small punch and tap down the locating pin on the pick up --
in small steps -- until it just drops into the small hole where you did
all the above work. Need I say gently please? Use the #10 x 32 tap and
tap lube to thread the hole where the pick up mounting screw goes. It
is only the very top plate you are threading so you do not have to go
far. Clean the new threads with spirits. Now fit the pick up and secure
it with the 1/2 " #10 x 32 screw and the vibration proof lock washer. I
also added a dab of Loctite just to be sure.

The pick up is mounted.

Now the source coil...

Cut the green wire off where it attaches to the old source coil which
is immediately to the left of the old points/new pick up. Carefully pry
up the folded metal tab at the back of the old source coil. Lift off
the metal washer, then the fiber washer and then gently pry off the old
source coil . Use the razor to cut the top and bottom plastic flanges
off the old source coil. Trim the cut edges so they are flat and cut
the large bottom one so that when it is against the bottom of the new
source coil the new coil's wires are free -- sort of G shaped. Slip
the old upper flange first and then the trimmed old lower flange --
carefully pry wires out of the way. Now slip on the new source coil.
The wires are to the "outer" side of stator and toward the center of
the stator with the new source coil supported by the cut off plastic
flanges from the old source coil. The cut out portion should allow the
wires to be free. Everything OK? Slip on the fiber washer and the metal
retainer and push the metal tab back down to hold the new source coil
in place. GENTLY use a punch to get it all the way flat again.

The source coil is mounted.

Wiring is very straight forward. Connect the ground terminal of the
pick up, the bare wire of the new source coil and the new white wire to
the ground of the stator plate using short sections of the old source
coil's wire. Connect the green wire from the pick up to the new green
wire. Connect the new red wire to the red/orange wire from the new
source coil. Pull the old green wire out of the stator plate and attach
a length of new green wire to it. Use solder and heat shrink where
appropriate and make sure there are NO loose wires to catch on anything
-- run them tight like the other wires to the stator are. Run the red,
white and two green wires in a protective sheath to the CDi unit. Use
solder and heat shrink tube to attach the connectors.

That is that.

SO should you do all this work? Maybe. If you already have the tools,
or have access to the tools, AND you can find a source coil, AND you
can make sense of the above description, then go for it. If you are not
very electrically minded or a bit of a klutz or have no tools, just buy
a new stator plate. PK ones run about $125US or so.

write up by John Collier...!!
-------------------------------------------------

Going to cdi on a stock 100 Sport is going to make little difference
other than eliminating points adjustment. This upgrade is mostly
better for tuned bikes that rev high enough to cause problems with the
points ignition.
User avatar
spiderwebb
 
Posts: 2661
Joined: Fri May 25, 2007 3:15 pm
Location: Eugene, OR

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